Now to be resolved…

My previous post here had been languishing in Draft limbo for about three months. Getting it posted was like coughing out a plug of steak that got stuck in my windpipe. It felt awful coughing, it was hard to get out, but it felt great once it shot out of my throat. The emphasis of the blog so far has been wrenching. I built up two very different bikes that don’t make a lot of sense in the modern world of carbon fiber and integrated systems and I had one seemingly misplaced frame repainted where many prefer the natural (“nude”) look of a dense weave. So where does this put me?

As obtuse and outdated as these machines may be, they make perfect sense to me. They represent what I understand cycling to be about. Cycling has it’s fad and fashions like everything else and all of us fall prey to them and I’m no exception. Underneath all of the marketing fluff is a design and dynamic that has hardly changed: two wheels, two triangles, two pedals, and a chain in between all of that to create a perfect motion that marries man and machine.

I mentioned that even I fall for fad and fashion. A few years back I fell face first into the world of carbon fiber and compact frames by trying to build up the absolute lightest bike I could. I suppose this was me springing far and fast from my traditional roots to the modern day only to find that I didn’t exactly like where I went. These two bikes were a slow return to something a bit more classic without going too far into the distant past. I’ll probably post about my weight weenie bike (and others) one day but today is not that day.

The bike without the rider is a useless hunk and the rider isolated from the world is a pinhead. We ride on the road and not on rollers or trainers. The wind in our face should come from nature and not a fan. So I resolve now to blog less about the bike and more about the ride. This could be another disastrous resolution like trying to lose weight, eat healthy, and save money.

We’ll see.

Happy New Year!

I’m back.

I had hoped to have smaller and more frequent posts but it just didn’t work out. Life got busy with two little kids, travel for work, and a hectic schedule. I was lucky to ride a bit but even that faded away in November and December. The year ended with only 3777 miles compared to 5280 miles last year. That’s OK. Sometimes it is good for the head and heart to take a break.

So what’s new since September 12th, 2009? Not much… except that the Viner is done! Here’s a mish mash of new and old pictures.

It's done!

There it is in all of it’s fine Italian glory. It is an extraordinarily beautiful bike. I even accessorized it with a pump and Garmin mount. Let’s look at some of the details.

They just don't make 'em like they used to.

Yes, that is a seatpost and that is what a spiffy seatpost used to look before the carbon revolution. It’s Campagnolo Chorus aero seatpost with a 26.2mm diameter. Shiny, isn’t it? I actually needed a 26.4mm diameter seatpost and I can feel this one wobble inside the lug before tightening the binder bolt. The trick to adjusting the seatpost position is to start off with it too high and find the right position by lowering it. That way you can avoid the all too common scuff marks as you raise it and scratch it against the lug. The seat is a fizik Pave from eBay. It has a smooth flat surface with some slight rounding. Call me a backwards thinking retro rider, but I don’t like seats with the goofy “love channels” or anatomic cutouts. For the most part, no matter where I sit on those saddles, I end up sinking into the void and I get a bad case of numb-nuts. There are some exceptions and the $14 gel saddle on my Flyte is extremely comfortable.

Would you trust your crotch to anything else but a nice modern gel saddle?

It’s anatomic groove is not as severe as some others. Besides being of a classic form, the saddle is made in Italy which fits the theme of this build.

Wheels next.

The wheels are built with Campagnolo Record Pave rims, ACI spokes, and Campagnolo Veloce hubs  – all Italian!

There are 36 spokes on both wheels. And yes, they are tubular. The wheels built up real nice and real easy. Following the advise from Garret’s comment to my Two Happy Wheels blog entry, I got the wheel to be concentric and then I went for the lateral truing. It was interesting to note that by getting the wheel concentric first, I was not too far from being laterally true. The front hub came from an eBay retailer named dgcyclery and it was new, smooth and shiny. Before the current front hub, I had bought another Veloce hub from Ital-Tecno. It was advertised as being new. Here’s what I got.

Shame on Ital-Tecno!

That’s not new. That’s a desecrated hub with dry bearings. It was extremely disappointing to receive this. I’m through with that store. The front wheel uses 300mm long double butted spokes. They were probably 1mm longer than necessary but there is still plenty of thread left for adjustments. The initial rear spokes were a tad too long.

In a comical way, I always thought of this little spoke like a turtle sticking it's head out of it's shell and saying "Hi!".

While not threatening, it was certainly unnerving to have that much extra thread. I was probably one thread away from spoke wind-up. The folks at sdeals.com sent me another batch of spokes and the wheel came together like jig-saw puzzle. Spoke tension on the rear drive side spokes hovers around 87 kg which is fine for a 36 spoke wheel. With more spokes taking the load, the tension can be lowered. Lower tensions also make for easier wheel builds too. When I was replacing the longer spokes with the shorter ones, I did it one spoke at a time. I didn’t want to unlace the entire wheel. It was interesting to see the effect of completely losing one spoke. The wheel became laterally untrue but it wasn’t so bad that I couldn’t ride home on it if I absolutely had to.

Another interesting thing to note about the rear wheel is the mixing of different spoke types. The drive side spokes are straight gauge single butted spokes and the non-drive side are double butted. This was a recommended to me by the folks at sdeals.com. The straight gauge spokes on the drive side take up the tension and add some strength and the double butted spokes provide enough counter balance at the lower tensions to keep the wheel centered and true. The combination has worked well!

In a heavily dished rear wheel like mine, the non-drive side spokes are very loose. They are almost just flopping around. One of them kept coming completely undone. I noticed this during those soft tender moments with the bike on the stand and I would spin the wheels. A little bit of Loctite on the threads did the trick. I know… I know… blasphemy! Then again, what do you think Spoke Prep is?

The tires are Tufo Elite Road 700×23c tubulars.

Tufo must mean tough in Czech.

Lots of people hate Tufo tires because they they think they are stiffer than most garden hoses and ride as smooth as knobby BMX tires. I have to say that is not the case here. These tires are pretty nice. I don’t run them at the insanely high pressures that others might. Tufo claims that the usable range of pressure is between 110 and 220 PSI. Just because I can run these pressures doesn’t mean I do. I run mine at 100 PSI rear and 90 PSI front which is probably just right for  a 23c wide tire for my fly weight. Think of it this way. If me and my bike weighs in at around 180 pounds and I have 60/40 distribution ratio between the rear and the front then my contact area is about:

Rear: (180 pounds * 60%) / 100 PSI = 1.08 square inches

Front: (180 pounds * 40%) / 90 PSI = 0.80 squareinches.

Now double the pressures and you’ll see the contact areas go down by a factor of two. I prefer the security of a larger contact patch. Honestly, I couldn’t tell you if I am losing speed and power due to any higher rolling resistance. Even if they do add some resistance and are “slower”, they are still faster than a flatted low rolling resistance tire. I’m here to have a good time – not necessarily make a good time.

The nicest thing about these tires is that they are easy to mount unlike Continental Competition tires. I did pump these tires up to 200 PSI when the glue was drying. The extra high pressure helped the tire straighten itself out (what little was needed).

Wrapping handlebar tape has always been a challenge to me. It sounds like it should be simple but for some reason it is terribly difficult for me to get it to look nice. Maybe I don’t get the overlap leading up to the levers quite right and that makes the figure-8 wrap around difficult. However, this time I think I nailed it.

Almost perfect!

I decided to follow some of the tips and tricks described on the Park Tools USA site. The tapering of the tape ends worked out real nice. Ok, so I went a little heavy on the electrical tape, but at least it’s not coming undone any time soon.

I love the Veloce shifters. Shifting is a real treat but something to get used to. Campy shifters allow the rider to shift up and down the rear cassette in several steps whereas Shimano limits the rider to one or two. The front shift lever  is not indexed in terms of being a “double” or a “triple”. It can be used for either. You simply pull or release the lever according to the ratchet clicks and let the limit screws on the derailleur dicate how far you can go. This means you may have to reindex the front derailleur a bit to accomodate the chain angle for a specific gear combo. The nice thing about this system is that I could potentially move to a double crankset and not need a new lever. There are no specific “speed” markings on it.

Only the right lever is speed specific.

And how did we do on weight?

Light enough for this old timer!

At 22 pounds, 10 ounces, we have a 3 pound, 12 ounce pound improvement with the Viner over the clunky Flyte which came in at 26 pounds, 6 ounces.

The Flyte is not light!

Back in the 80s, the Viner would have been average and the Flyte would have been just OK. Nowadays, these bikes are heavy weights no matter what. There are mountain bikes that weigh less than this now. While weight is always important, it isn’t always the most important quality of a bike. I will always contend that a bike must fit right and feel right before it weighs right. The Viner fits that bill just fine with a silky smooth and plush ride. It is quicker than the lumbering Flyte with it’s fat 650B tire and it has a lot less road buzz too. I will give credit to the steel frame and fork along with the slightly more relaxed traditional geometry. No matter what people will say about steel from their arm chair, this is reason that steel will never disappear!

Catching up…

It’s been way too long since my last update and plenty has happened.

First, the Cannondale. It’s back and it is breathtaking!

It's like a brand new frame!

Actually, it came back to me in July. CyclArt did a fantastic job on the refinish. The finish is deep and glossy. All divets and dents around the BB are gone.

As if they were never there...

The hand sanding marks previously seen under the finish are gone too.

No more divets... no more hand sanding marks.

And the decals have been refreshed.

Clean. Very clean.

The extra thick finish added a few grams but not anything tragic. Scroll back to my May 3rd entry and you’ll see the frame weighed 1184 grams. Now we have 1220 grams.

We never think of paint as weighing much but it does.

The extra 36 grams here are well worth it but it does remind me of NASA’s space shuttle. At first, NASA painted the external fuel tanks to protect them against heat. It turned out not to be a problem so they ditched the paint saving a whopping 600 pounds or 272 kg. Check it out here.

In order to avoid scams and fraud, CyclArt adds their own signature to the paint job.

CyclArt adds their own mark to the frame.

The refinish was not cheap and I wouldn’t recommend it for every and any frame. There has to be some special about the frame either historically or sentimentally. Some would argue that refinishing a frame is wrong because it alters something that was originally done. In some ways, I agree. A 50 year old Singer should probably be left alone. As long as the bike was cared for and well ridden, the markings in the paint are historical. However, if a bike was abused or neglected then I would say it needs a second chance on life. What better way to represent that than with a fresh coat of paint? It would help bring out the fullest potential of the bike. In the case of my Cannondale, I felt that the bike needed a renewal. The chips and divets are beneath what the bike represents to me.

So what’s next for this frame? Seeing how much wrenching (and spending) I did this year on two builds, this one is going to have to wait until 2010. Let’s take a breather and give the wallet a rest. It’s going to be a slow build but we’ll get there.

As for the Viner… it’s done! I’m going to try for shorter and more focused blog posts here so I’ll have to hold off on writing about the Viner for now. Hopefully writing shorter blog posts will mean I can write them more frequently.

Pedals next!

Pedals are the easiest things anyone can attach to a bike provided you have the crankset on right. Ok, maybe a rear derailleur is easier to mount but mounting a rear derailleur is so easy that some would get confused.

Continuing in my Italian/Campy binge here, I was lucky enough to find a NOS set of Campy Veloce Pro Fit pedals on eBay.

This is something you won't find everyday on eBay.

Best of all, they went for the whopping sum of $52.05 + $7.50 S&H from Belgium.

Nice.

Not a scatch to be seen anywhere!

Yes, they came with cleats and all that good stuff. I’m not picturing it here because those bits and pieces aren’t that interesting.

The pedals have a cro-mo axle and you can feel it. At 314 grams for the set, these are no featherweights. That’s OK though. I could probably save 100 grams by getting a new set of Record or Chorus pedals for about $200. With a price difference of $150 (or so), I would be spending $1.50 per gram saved. That’s not worth it to me here.

Backtracking a bit…

Before I post more about the new parts I just got, I have to go back a bit and write some about my front derailleur.

Campagnolo makes triple front derailleurs with a clamp mount but they are all designed for 31.8mm or greater tubing diameter. The Viner has traditional 28.6mm tubing. I have two options. One,  I can get the 31.8mm clamp diameter derailleur and hope to find a shim adapter. Or, two, I can get a braze-on mounted derailleur and a clamp adapter. Option two is a little easier to come by and braze-on derailleurs are more plentiful than the clamp mount.

Clamp adapters are easy to find. Problem Solvers is the biggest supplier of such things and you can easily find some from other brands like Delta and Omni Racer. Shimano and Campagnolo even have some under their name. I would have happily gotten a Campy version except that it is for 31.8mm or bigger tubing, just like their clamp on derailleurs.

I found one adapter from an importer and bike company called Torelli. It may be made in Taiwan but at least I would have an Italian sounding part. BiKyle has it listed in their “Small Parts” page. Perfect! Or so I thought… here’s what shows up.

This is not what I expected to receive!

A few e-mails back and forth with BiKyle revealed that they no longer carry the Torelli and their website will soon reflect it. So they took the liberty of substituting a unit from Problem Solvers. I don’t have anything against Problem Solvers. They make a fine clamp and it fits the frame just fine. Take a look.

Functional and clean. It's hard to find anything wrong with the clamp.

And from the other side.

It's not going anywhere.

It strays from the Italian build and I could have gotten it cheaper from eBay or a different shop. No matter. We move on.

(Yes, that is a rear wheel and tire you see in the pictures. The blog postings are quite a bit behind the actual state of the build. Stay tuned!)

Finally!

You may be wondering why in the world am I taking so long to finish building my Viner? My biggest hold up has been US Customs.

I have been fortunate to find a great bike shop in Europe called Square Deals on Wheels, or sdeals.com. It’s a family run operation and they really know bikes inside and out. Their prices are almost impossible to beat and they have access to a lot of components that aren’t listed on their site. Just ask them about availability and you might find yourself with this.

That's right... those are rims in there!

Rims, spokes, nipples, derailleurs, chains, shifters, and a headset fills out the package. It was not a small purchase but it includes everything I need to finish the Viner. No more hunting and pecking! I even saved some money compared to the US retail market despite the higher S&H and the weakening US dollar. It probably as a lot to do with the fact that I am eliminating the US distributor, a middle man, and getting closer to the wholesale price.

Many would say that I should stick to supporting my local bike shop or at least help a US retailer. The reality is that we all live and compete in a global economy. This isn’t charity. This is business. You could counter that with the fact that the local bike shop could provide a better service. In my case, I get terrible service at most of the local shops. I ask for a tubular tire and I’m handed a clincher inner tube. When I try to redeem a coupon for discount on a set of MTB tires the shop owner tells me that he really intended the coupon for a set of generics but just didn’t write on the coupon. Terrible! The good shops around me may know their material inside and out but their product selection is slim. It’s not their fault since they must carry what people want to buy. Unfortunately, everyone wants to buy SRAM and Shimano along with clincher tires. Special ordering a handful of separate items simply doesn’t make economic sense for anyone. I’ll happily buy cables and handlebar tape from them but not Campagnolo parts.

The only “bad” part about buying from abroad is the fact that US Customs can take forever in releasing the package. It’s not their fault. They may have a glut of packages that need to be processed or they may be confused when they read the declaration form and see “nipples” and “spokes” listed on there. Eventually it does get released and you’re on your merry way. It took about 17 days for air mail delivery in my case here, 5 of which were for transit and the other 12 were used in taking up shelf space somewhere in a port of entry. I probably could have had everything delivered within a week if I bought from a US retailer.

Anyways… ramblings aside, it looks like I have plenty to keep me busy now. When you get bored reading about the Tour de France then check back to see what I’ve done with my freshly arrived goodies.

Surprising

A couple days ago, I bought a Park Tool BBT-5 cassette lockring tool. It claims to fit all Campagnolo lockrings.

Uhhh… no.

I have two Campagnolo lock rings. One came with my 13-29t cassette and the other came with my rear hub. I can’t remember which one came with what now but here they are.

The splines are different on the two lock rings.

Different.

The tool fit the right lock perfectly but it wouldn’t go into the left one at all. I measured the distance from a protruding spline down to the opposite protruding spline on both lockrings. There was a difference of 0.07mm which is about 2.7 mils – or about the thickness of a sheet of paper.

Different.

Now that doesn’t seem like a lot for a difference but it was enough for the tool not to be able to fit. I wondered if the lock ring was out of round. Nope. I wondered if the tool was out of round. Nope.

2.7 mils!

I ended up filing the splines down in lockring number two by about 0.09mm.

I can't believe I'm filing a Campy part!

Would you believe it that now the tool fits?

Fiat used to sell cars in the US before pulling out in the 80s with a notorious reputation for poor quality. Remember the old slogan of “Fix It Again Tony”? Could it have happened because of 0.07mm difference between designed-as and built-as?

Yikes!

Syntace

In my previous post I mentioned that I would email Syntace asking where their stems are made. I got a very prompt reply from a Krischan Spranz. It turns out that the stem is made in the “far east”. I would guess that translates to China. So it looks I have a German stem in name only. That is OK though. The stem is beautiful and you can’t complain about something so well polished.

Krischan told me to check the date code of the stem to see if it was affected by a recal.

Wait… a recall? What?

It turns out that early Syntace F99 stems had a tendency to break at the steerer tube clamp. Check out this link.

http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=1&pk=1207

A inspection of the date code on the stem will indicate if the stem is affected. Thankfully, my stem was made after the recall period. If you happen to have a Syntace F99 stem then please check your date code.

I have to applaud a company like Syntace who willingly brings to attention a potential safety issue. It takes a lot of integrity, especially for a smaller company like Syntace, to post a recall like this.

Parts

First, before I begin my usual rambles, I want to say thank you to all of you who have read this blog. This blog has gotten 2300+ hits since I started it. Whoever you are, your clicks are appreciated.

It’s been around a month since my last post. The build is coming but very slowly and I’m in no rush here. So what’s new?

I got a Campy Veloce 10 speed triple crank from Rocky Mountain Cyclery’s eBay store.

Yes, count them up... one, two, three chain rings.

At $49.95 with S&H included, how could anyone say no? And yes, they are made in Italy.

Would you expect anything else?

Granted, they aren’t polished to a mirror finish like we’ve seen in the Record family but seeing smooth silver components is so refreshing! Rocky Mountain Cyclery also had a set of Veloce brakes for $24.99 with S&H included.

So small... yet so important.

The country of origin isn’t stamped anywhere on the brakes and neither the brakes or the crankset came in it’s original packaging. There are no signs of these being take-offs (like grease marks, scratches, etc). Could they be made in Taiwan? I suppose anything is possible but I also got a 13t-29t 10 speed cassette and a 111mm bottom bracket from Niagara Cycles through their Amazon.Com shop. Everything came in it’s original packaging and the packaging clearly says, “Made in Italy”.

No doubt where these goodies came from!

If Campagnolo is going to make anything in Taiwan then I wouldn’t think that they would stop at brakes. Why not make more things there? I’m sure they know that if they made anything outside of Italy then their reputation of “cycling purity” will take a hit. Let’s just assume that the brakes are indeed made in Italy. And if they’re not… oh well.  It’s hard to go wrong considering the price (as long as they work!).

A stem and handlebars came next. Finding a polished silver stem is a bit tricky. IcyclesUSA has some made by Kalloy in Taiwan, and they even fit 1″ steerer tubes, but the TIG welding just turns me off.

Can you just hear the *ptlat*ptlat*ptlat* of the welder here?

It’s a small detail but one that is easily noticed. Call me picky, but I passed it up.  eBay rewards the patient and I found this NOS Syntace from Demo Bike Sales and it is beautiful!

Shiny!

The logo was burned in with a laser and it’s really light to boot. At first I was a bit turned off by the black handlebar clamps but they match the Cinelli handlebars perfectly from The New-Old-Stock NOS Bicycle Shop.

The black clamps and Cinelli logos make for a sharp contrast.

Nice.

The right Cinelli logo is a bit skewed so I’ll have to move it. I can almost massage it down with my fingers.

The stem’s packaging says nothing of where it is made. I sent a quick note to Syntace. Let’s see what they come back.

The handlebars a bit more explicit. It says Made in Italy on the wrapping.

So what was made in Italy?

Wouldn’t it be funny if the text only referred to the wrapping and not the handlebars? Like the brakes, let’s assume that we have some Italian made handlebars. If it’s not then at least I have something Italian sounding.

A rear Veloce hub came from Cycles BiKyle. I found their Campy page through a Yahoo search but the page was retired, meaning I couldn’t get to it from their main site. You never know what lurks in the dark corners of a shop. It’s always worth a call to see what a shop has. It turns out that they had one rear 36h hole in stock. Perfect! I don’t have a front hub but having a rear hub means I’m one hub closer to a full set.

With some parts in hand, it’s time to start putting things together. I figured the cassette and hub would be the easiest.

Wrong.

It was immediately obvious that the chain would be rubbing against the frame when riding on the 13t cog.

Now that is a snug fit!

Just look at the lack of space around the chain and seat stays. I took a section of chain and draped it across the 13t cog. Sure enough, it rubbed.

This is not good.

I posted this to the Bike Forums site and got some good responses. It looks like I got two things going against me here. First, I have an excessively large cog in the last position. If it were smaller then I might have some more room. Second, I had my drop out adjustment screws all the way out. Turning them in lowered the position of the hub and bought me some room. The hub now sits half way down the drop outs with the screws all the way in.

Just a little lower now...

I ordered a set of longer screws from Loose Screws so I can have some extra threads in case I need to adjust the alignment. Having the hub sit half way down the drop outs is probably as low as I would want to go.

The simplest fix here was to add some washers/shims to the hub. This would increase my O.L.D. spacing but it would also spread the frame out giving me more room. I found some closely matching washers at the local Home Depot and got busy forming them. The washers had the right inner diameter but they had enormous outside diameters. I secured the washer on a screw with two nuts, put the screw in a drill, and spun the washer against a file to get the right inner diameter.

Spin spin spin!

It sounds crazy but it worked. Thankfully, I only had to do one washer like this because the other one fits inside the hub shell without any problems. And, you can’t see it with the lock ring on.

It looks like it was almost made to be there to begin with.

The Veloce hub started out with an O.L.D. of 131mm and it now sits at nearly 134mm. It’s a tight squeeze into the frame but with a little spreading it works just fine. Now the chain does not rub!

Clearance has been achieved.

I thought about getting an 11-25 cassette and creating a hybrid cassette. Two things turned me off from this. First, these cassettes aren’t cheap. The washers cost me $0.40 for a pack of three. Second, the cogs are specially designed to facilitate shifting from one specific size to another. The 17t is meant to jump up to a 16t – not a 15t. Each cog is ramped for this.

Follow the circles on the teeth to see the ramp pattern underneath them.

Substituting in the wrong cog size could lead to poor shifting. I say “could” because it probably wouldn’t be worse than shfting from a 24t to a 28t cog in a 6 speed freewheel. There were no ramps on those cogs and we survived on them just fine.

And so here it stands… one Italian Viner build in progress.

What better backdrop than my water heater and home heaters?

The Art of the Bike

As the Cannondale waits its turn at the beauty parlor, let’s start tailoring a dress for the Viner.  Tipping the scales at 2340 gram, this steel frame is no anorexic waif and that doesn’t include the 777 other grams for the uncut fork. That comes out to nearly 6.9 pounds of steel which is an impressive quantity for weight weenies and steel enthusiasts alike. Cutting the steerer tube will shave that fork weight down a bit but only by a bit. Then again, how much does weight really matter? As I always say, there’s more I can do around my waist line than on my bike.

Todays bikes are not made and crafted as much as they are engineered and built. Back in the days when steel ruled supreme, there were no computer models of some fancy finite element analysis that pointed out areas of strain and flex. Materials in well built frames were chosen carefully based on the experience and feel of the builder. Who in the world would have understood something like, “vertically compliant and laterally stiff”? Frame building was a craft and something done by feel as much as by a ruler. It was a talent as much as a skill. Being a craft meant that frame building and bikes were art. Everything had to look as good as it felt and it had to ride as well as the quality of paint on the frame.

I think a lot of the art is lost on the today’s pack of riders. Technology, and computer modeling in particular, has superseded the hmm’ing and scratching of your head. Automated robotic structures in Asia weld, braze, glue, and rivet everything together. The people pushing the buttons on the machines may know as much about cycling as anyone can know the nature of God. They just follow the designers and engineers drafting things up in AutoCAD or some other modeling software. While this may not directly impact the quality and performance of the products we receive, it does make for a disconnect.

Have you noticed how almost every handlebar, stem, and seatpost is black? The black can hide manufacturing marks.

How many polished hubs do you see? Less and less, I can guarantee you that. That’s manual labor.

How much more are we concerned with aerodynamics than stability when we look at a set of wheels? Everything was designed with a computer. It has to be stable.

This is what I mean when I say that the art of the bike has been marginalized, at least to some degree. Subtly has given way to loud flashy graphics, aggressive designs, and quantitative (vs. qualitative) summations. I find this a bit sad when I look around and see the plethora of cheap components littering the marketplace. Personally, I hate seeing the individual TIG weld marks. My Flyte is covered with them.

Can you just hear the weld marks being put on? Plat-plat-plat-plat...

Ghastly.

And the plastic coated Deore quick release nut on the DS is nothing to write home about.

Plastic is great for Tupperware - not bikes.

Form follows function here and it doesn’t have to look pretty. It simply has to work when every other option would lead to failure. The Flyte has to make it work when others are fixing their flats. It has to climb when others have to be walked. People look at it and say, “You made it on that?” Yes, the Flyte is one ugly beast but it works.

This is not say that modern bikes are necessarily trash. I ride several of them in aluminum and one in carbon fiber. All of them use modern components and everything is of recent manufacture from places like China, Taiwan, Italy, and Japan. They all ride great and show no signs of fading into the limelight anytime soon. Yet, despite all the refinement today’s bike can offer, there is something missing – a certain feeling.

What of beauty? What of refinement? What of the craft? Where is the feeling?

That is what I hope to capture with the Viner. It may be a cheap imitation of a Colnago somewhere and it certainly won’t have the media flashing their bulbs like Schwinn’s 70th Anniversary Paramount. Like I said in my one of my previous posts, the logo bled, the chainstay protector is off, and the headbadge is just a cheap puffy stick. The bike will weigh more than it should and probably not everything will be polished to a mirror finish but that’s not the point.

The point here is that it let’s me say, “I told you so.”